The Press Herald's critic James Schwartz ended a hot streak of four-star reviews this weekend with a three-star experience at Cape Elizabeth's Sea Glass, the restaurant at the Inn by the Sea. Former Dine Out Maine reviewer John Golden gave Sea Glass the same rating in 2013.
In the past few weeks, The Honey Paw in Portland, Bandaloop in Kennebunkport, and Gorham's MK Kitchen (launched in April by former Sea Glass chef Mitchell Kaldrovich, coincidentally) all received scores the newspaper labels as "Excellent," while Sea Glass got a "Good" rating for "a healthful menu introduced by the newly appointed executive chef" Steve Sicinski.
Despite the restaurant's "elegance and stunning views" (and a pro tip that locals can get 15% off the bill upon request), Schwartz found that his meal was lacking in consistency. "I half wondered if two teams were at work in the kitchen, one working with seasonings and the other without because the duck that another friend ordered was spiceless, while the confit-and-cabbage rolls served with it were piquant standouts," he mused. Stick to "light entrees," "keep it simple," and soak up the "jaw-dropping view" until the kitchen figures out what's missing, he concluded.