How to Avoid the 'Gimmicks' at Freeport's Stirling and Mull

Press Herald critic James Schwartz takes Freeport's Stirling and Mull to task in a recent Dine Out Maine review. He balks at the European-style restaurant's gimmicks like a self-serve beer wall and self-cook lava stones, "diversions" that "draw attention away from the food, which is inconsistent and often undistinguished." He calls the drinks "reliably good" in his intro, though he never mentions having tried any.

Highlights of his two-and-a-half star experience include the barbecue burger, "hearty" Hungarian goulash, and a German-inspired Schwabish salad with dressed greens on potato salad and sauerkraut, ringed by house-pickled beets and carrots. He calls it "filling," "crunchy," "tart," "flavorful," "starchy and satisfying."

With seven reviews on Yelp, the restaurant scores three-and-a-half stars, with reviews ranging from one ("Easily the worst restaurant in Freeport") to five stars (from someone who may well have been consulting Schwartz's list of highlights when she ordered the hamburger and German potato salad).