3 1/2 Stars For Bueno Loco In Falmouth; Enio's Dazzles

The chef at Bueno Loco in Falmouth may be Russian, but "he sure knows his way around a kitchen," writes Nancy Heiser in her review of the nearly three-month-old restaurant for The Portland Press Herald. Oleg Opalnyk "learned this cuisine during extended stays in Guatemala, Belize and the Yucatan." Instead of Tex-Mex standards,

... you'll find food with Yucatan roots such as pork, turkey or duck pibil -- a Mayan word meaning "buried"; it's a cooking technique that involves wrapping in banana leaves, marinating in citrus and a peppery red sauce, then slow cooking. The result resembles pulled meat.

Bueno Loco means "Crazy Good" in Spanish; while Heiser may agree with that designation as it applies to the food, "service that was friendly but had a few missteps," cost the restaurant a half star.

Bored with Florida, longtime Portland restaurateurs Bob and Laura Butler returned to Maine and opened Enio's in a former South Portland bakery they have "transformed, dazzlingly, to 36 seats and an Italian theme," according to Diane Hudson in May's Portland Monthly.

Friends at a neighboring table ... convince us to give a calamari saute ($13) a try. We do, and you should, too. Sauteed to perfection and wonderfully not chewy, its flavors are resplendent with garlic, extra virgin olive oil, red and yellow pepper slices, scallions, red onions, and crunchy croutons.

On an off-season jaunt to Southern Maine for the Kennebec Journal, Travelin Mainers George and Linda Smith find Federal Jack's in Kennebunkport "jammed with customers on a Thursday night in April. I guess it's popular with locals, too."

The surprise of the evening was the Mediterranean sampler. Grilled pita bread came with three spreads. The tabouli was very light and fresh, and was packed with herbs. Yum. The white bean and garlic hummus was my favorite. Incredible.

· New Restaurant Makes Splash With Interesting Spices, Dishes [PPH]
· A Trattoria Power Couple Returns [PM]
· Federal Jack's In Kennebunkport [TM]