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Wordsmith Brian Duff is back at it in the latest issue of The Portland Phoenix, with a characteristically wacky lead-in about the Japanese "taste for the extreme," to his review of Portland's Kushiya Benkay. "So what is most pleasing about Kushiya Benkay, a sort of skewer-pub from the folks at Benkay Sushi, is the way it brings together several impulses without going too crazy about any particular one." [PP]