Reviews of Phoever Maine, Front Room, Boone's, More

Brian Duff of the Portland Phoenix finds good food and a welcoming atmosphere at Phoever Maine (a relatively new Vietnamese restaurant in a Westbrook strip mall). On the pho #4: "The broth had an almost floral fragrance, and was rich but not too heavy, with an oniony sharpness. Big slices of thin brisket had a great char flavor, while slices of rarer beef were more tender and sweet. With a squeeze of citrus, another of sriracha, and a dash of crunch sprouts and basil, it was a great bowl." Duff also weaves in some commentary on the immigrant experience and the "task of serious late-afternoon drinking." [PP]

John Golden visits the Front Room for his Golden Dish blog and is surprised to find the normally bustling original Room from Harding Lee Smith near empty on a Tuesday night. He settles on a pan-roasted duck breast special: "The duck was cooked pink—moist and very tender. And the bacon-maple grits cake—a delicious candy-sweet savory—was so good it should definitely become a regular side dish. The roasted Brussels sprouts were, however, too charred; a few minutes less in the oven would have corrected this." [TGD]

Portland Monthly editor Colin W. Sargent gives a brief history of Boone's before delving into a review of the newly opened and revamped Boone's Fish House & Oyster Room, which he finds to be a very worthy remake of the original. "Thoughtfully, it's been discovered to the bones and opened up to reveal handsome distressed bricks, massive sanded beams, and a sweep of views from Harbor Fish to the Portland Custom House to the shipping in the harbor beyond, under the cry of gulls. Who knew a trendy modern restaurant was hiding under all that dilapidation? I love the new stainless-steel steampunk decor, complete with a flashy Boone's logo hammered into metal." [PM]

Aimsel Ponti handles this week's Eat and Run review in the Press Herald, visiting the Old Port Sandwich Shop and having an enjoyable egg salad and cheddar sandwich. "How have I never made this connection before? Cheese on an egg salad sandwich is a bold move and yet an obvious one. It added a certain je ne sais quoi to a lovely sandwich that was overflowing with tasty egg salad." [PPH]

Claire Jeffers heads to Miyake for the Press Herald's Bar Guide. While the restaurant is best known for its excellent (and pricey) tasting menu, that's not really what she's there for. "Consider the beer list – a straightforward selection of eight brews under $8 and most around $4.50 to $5. And if done carefully, bites at the sushi bar won't crush the bank, such as the $4 to $5 orders of nigiri or sashimi." [PPH]

Katy Kelleher writes about her multi-course lunch at The North Point for Maine magazine's Eat Maine blog. After a "fromage extravaganza" to start, she opts for some greens with her main course: "My salad is also excellent, and comes piled high with sauteed mushrooms and salty cheese. At the suggestion of our friendly server, I opt to order the mushroom flatbread on a salad, rather than in a sandwich. Turns out, you can do that with any of their menu items, and I appreciate the ability to swap out the bread for more greenery—especially after that rich cocoa chevre." [Eat Maine]
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Phoever Maine. [Photo: Foursquare]